Being a surfer is more than just doing a sport or hobby. There's something so intimate about being in water and trying to coordinate with it – the flowing nature of waves, the way you float while immersed and covered. The fact that this thing is constantly surrounding you, but you can move through it is simply beautiful. Being able to coordinate yourself with the water is a way of listening, of gaining a skill in attunement. You feel attune with the water, the wind, to the dichotomy between slowness and chaos. The ancient language of the ocean speaks in tides and emotions instead of words. A surfer learns early on that the sea is not something to conquer or master, and that kind of dominance and pretentiousness will only end up in grave and dire situations. The ocean is something to work with, not against. You don't force a wave, you have to have patience and wait for everything to come, even if it means you float endlessly. You see the horizon, feel the pull of the current under your board, and accept that some days the ocean gives generously, and other days it asks you to float and look around.
Being a surfer means you have developed that intimacy with the ocean. The water temperature on your skin despite a potential wetsuit. The whole process of going to surf is intimate in and of itself. You drive out there, and usually the drive is quite beautiful. You pack your things, you see the coastline as you drive, already sparking interest and excitement. You park, put your wetsuit on in the parking lot and run out to surf! The smell of the salty sea water, the seagulls flying above you, the sound of children's laughter coming from the shore. Even the kelp floating around you becomes something beautiful. Being alone floating in the water like that humbles you. You realize how small you are compared to the vast, wide ocean. No matter how experienced you are, the ocean always has the final say.
The ocean demands respect. When this surfer saw a poor, innocent turtle struggling in the water he knew he had to rescue him.
Watch the full video here to see the turtle being sent to its freedom.
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